Kitchen Design Ideas
Most kitchen inspiration shows you a finished room and tells you nothing about what it took to get there. These are the decisions that actually shape a kitchen, described by what each one does to the layout, the budget and the schedule.
For numbers, see what a kitchen remodel costs. For how the work runs, see kitchen remodeling.
The island is a plumbing decision before it is a design one
An island with nothing in it is a table that cannot be moved. An island with a sink or a cooktop is a services problem: the drain, the vent, the water and often gas all have to reach the middle of the room, which on a slab means cutting concrete.
- Prep island, no services. Cheapest by a wide margin. Genuinely useful if it is big enough to work at.
- Island with a sink. Needs drainage, a vent, and water. On a raised floor this is straightforward; on a slab it means trenching.
- Island with a cooktop. Needs gas or a heavy electrical run, plus ventilation — either a downdraft or a hood suspended over the island, which becomes the visual centrepiece whether you want it to or not.
- Two islands. One for prep, one for seating. Needs a genuinely large room, and it solves the problem where a single island tries to be a workspace and a dining table and fails at both.
A waterfall end — where the counter material turns and runs to the floor — is a slab decision. It consumes significantly more stone and needs a mitred joint cut and fitted precisely. It looks superb and it is not a minor upgrade.
Layout: the only rule that still matters
Forget the work triangle as a rule and think about it as zones. The question is whether you can move between the sink, the cooking surface and the refrigerator without crossing someone else’s path, and whether there is landing space beside each one.
Landing space is what most bad kitchens lack. Somewhere to put the hot pan next to the hob, somewhere to put the shopping next to the fridge, somewhere to stack next to the sink. A beautiful kitchen with nowhere to set anything down is a kitchen people complain about daily.
- Galley. Most efficient per square foot. Needs enough width between runs — too narrow and doors collide, too wide and you walk more than you work.
- L-shape with an island. The default for a reason. Works when the room is squarer.
- U-shape. Enormous storage and counter, and it closes the room off. Opening one leg into the living space is the most common remodel we do.
- Single wall with an island. Modern and open-plan friendly. Everything happens on one line, so the island has to carry real work.
Opening the wall to the dining or living room
The most requested change we see. Whether it is cheap or expensive comes down to one question: is the wall carrying load?
If it is non-bearing, this is demolition and patching. If it is bearing, you need a beam, posts carrying down to adequate footings, and an engineer. That changes the cost, the permit path and the schedule. It is almost always still worth doing — but knowing which one you have before you fall in love with the idea is the difference between a plan and a disappointment. See removing a load-bearing wall.
Consider also what you are opening onto. A kitchen open to a tidy living room is wonderful. A kitchen open to a room where the television is always on is a decision some households regret. A half-height wall or a wide cased opening gives most of the light and connection while keeping some separation.
Storage decisions that people notice every day
- Drawers instead of lower cabinets. The single highest-value upgrade in a kitchen. You see everything and reach everything without kneeling. More expensive per unit and worth it everywhere below the counter.
- Full-height cabinets to the ceiling. Removes the dust shelf, adds real storage, and makes the room look taller and more deliberate. The top shelf needs a stool, which is fine — that is where the things you use twice a year live.
- A pantry, even a shallow one. A 300mm-deep pull-out beats a deep cupboard you have to excavate.
- Deep drawers for pans, narrow pull-outs for trays. Specificity beats volume.
- Somewhere for the bin that is not under the sink. Under the sink is where the plumbing is.
Counters and backsplash
Quartz is the default because it is consistent, non-porous and needs nothing. Natural stone is more beautiful, more variable and needs sealing and tolerance for patina. Which you should choose depends entirely on how much you mind a mark.
A full-height backsplash — the counter material carried up the wall to the underside of the cabinets — is one of the most striking things you can do and eliminates a grout line entirely. It costs more stone and it makes the room read as a single material.
If you are tiling instead, the decision that matters most is not the tile. It is the grout colour. Matching grout makes the wall read as a surface; contrasting grout makes it read as a pattern of individual tiles. Same tile, completely different room.
Lighting, which is decided at rough-in
Three layers: general light so the room is usable, task light on the work surfaces, and something decorative over the island or table. Under-cabinet lighting is the one people forget and the one that makes the biggest practical difference, because without it you work in your own shadow.
All of it needs to be roughed in before the walls close. Adding a pendant over an island afterwards means opening a ceiling.
What costs more than people expect
- Moving the sink or the range. Especially on a slab.
- A waterfall island end. Substantially more stone plus a mitred joint.
- Structural work to open a wall. Beam, posts, footings, engineering.
- Appliance-driven changes. A professional range needs a bigger hood, more make-up air and often more gas; a built-in fridge needs a specific cabinet depth.
- Custom cabinetry lead time. Roughly three weeks to manufacture, and it usually sets the schedule.
What is cheaper than people expect
- Drawers instead of doors below the counter. Modest uplift, daily benefit.
- Cabinets to the ceiling. A little more material, much better room.
- Under-cabinet lighting, if roughed in with everything else.
- Full-height backsplash in the same slab when you are already buying the stone.
- Better hardware. You touch it every day and it is a small fraction of the job.
Decisions you cannot undo
Where the sink, range and fridge sit. Anything structural. Where the wiring and pipes run. Ceiling height and window positions. Cabinet layout, once manufactured. Paint, hardware, stools and light fittings can all change later — the rest cannot without redoing the room.
Questions we get asked
Do I really need a sink in the island?
Only if you will use it. A sink in the island means drainage, venting and water reaching the middle of the room, which on a slab means cutting concrete. A prep island with no services costs far less and is genuinely useful if it is big enough to work at.
What is a waterfall island and is it worth it?
It is where the counter material turns at the end of the island and runs to the floor. It looks superb, and it is not a minor upgrade — it uses significantly more stone and needs a precisely cut and fitted mitred joint.
Should I choose drawers or cabinets below the counter?
Drawers, almost everywhere. You can see and reach everything without kneeling. They cost more per unit and it is the upgrade homeowners are most consistently glad they made.
Can we open the wall between the kitchen and the living room?
Usually yes. Whether it is simple or structural depends on whether the wall carries load — if it does, you need a beam, posts to adequate footings and an engineer, which changes cost, permit and schedule. We determine that at the site visit before anything is drawn.
Quartz or natural stone?
Quartz is consistent, non-porous and maintenance-free. Natural stone is more beautiful, more variable, needs sealing and will develop a patina. The honest question is how much a mark would bother you.
What sets the schedule on a kitchen?
Usually the cabinets. Custom cabinetry takes about three weeks to manufacture, and that tends to govern the programme more than the building work does. Decisions that affect rough plumbing and electrical have to be made before the walls close.
Related: All design ideas · Kitchen remodeling · Kitchen remodel cost · What homeowners wish they had known · Removing a load-bearing wall
Tell us about your kitchen
Send us the basics — the size of the kitchen, whether you want to move any walls, and roughly when you would like to start — and we will come out, take measurements and put a written scope and estimate in front of you within about 48 hours of the visit.
